Breakfast for dinner was a big thing when I was a kid. For some reason we thought it was a treat – at least if mom was making it. When Dad was making it, it was because mom was working late and eggs were one of the three things he knew how to make. The other two were Fettuccini Alfredo with hand rolled noodles (wasn’t going to happen on a Tuesday night in October after cross country soccer band dance practice) and something he called Joes – a mixture of barely seasoned browned ground beef and frozen spinach that we – his kids – hated with the passion of a thousand burning suns.
Now days, we do what we as Americans would consider breakfast for dinner occasionally. Sometimes I just want pancakes. A soft French style omelet, some bread, a bitter green salad, and a glass of wine might not really be breakfast for dinner – but I’m gonna claim it counts. This week’s recipes are sort of in that vein. Could be breakfast. Could be dinner. Could be breakfast for dinner.
Whatever you call it, they’re a little bit luxury turned out of pretty simple ingredients, and at this time of year, I think that’s a lot of fun.
Brioche Loaf
Brioche is a remarkable versatile bread. I use the egg and butter enriched dough to make burgers or hot dog buns, add chocolate or dried fruit and pearl sugar to make a sweet breakfast loaf, and use it to make a simple loaf for sandwiches. A BLT on soft fresh Brioche is … well, it’s really really good. I’m struggling this morning to find appropriate superlatives that don’t make me sound like a kid from an 80’s movie’s video arcade.
Also, I managed to burn the loaf I was planning on photographing – and stupidly didn’t leave myself enough time to actually make another. It’s fine – it was edible and served honorably in other foods, but … keep an eye on you breads. Brioche is rich, sweet, and rises fast especially in the oven spring phase right after it hits the heat – if you’ve got it on the top rack, things can get toasty fast.
There are a lot of recipes that call for more butter than this one, and a lot of bakers that would balk at my inclusion of oil. I find it makes for a soft crumb that’s well suited to sandwiches and everyday loaves. There are a lot of other more authentic (and possibly less versatile) recipes out there if you’re looking for the perfect classic loaf.
Makes 2 loaves
500g AP flour
100 g warm whole milk
3 g yeast
4 large eggs
30 g unsalted butter, softened
20 g wildflower or orange blossom honey
15 g neutral oil
10 g kosher salt
1 egg, beaten with water as an egg wash
Add the milk and the yeast to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.
Allow to rest ten minutes for the yeast to proof.
Add the flour, butter, salt, oil, and honey.
Mix at low speed until fully combined. The dough will be crumbly.
Raise to medium speed and add the eggs one at a time, waiting between each egg until fully incorporated.
Raise the speed to medium high and beat in the butter.
Continue to process until a smooth, sticky dough forms.
Turn out of the bowl and transfer to a large, covered container to rise on the counter for 2 hours, then transfer the refrigerator to slowly rise overnight.
The next morning, turn out of the container, divide into 12 even pieces.
Using a swirling motion with floured hands, form the pieces into rough balls.
Grease two loaf pans.
Place six balls each in a greased loaf pan and cover with a damp towel.
Preheat your oven to 325°F.
Allow to rise until the dough almost reaches the top of the pan.
Brush the dough with egg wash.
Bake at 325°F until the top is a dark golden brown and the loaves are cooked through (or the internal temperature reaches 195°F)
Allow to cool completely before slicing.
Lavender Honey Glazed Bacon
When you want something just a little different, but not that different, but maybe a little French, but still sort of backyard familiar … just douse whatever it is with lavender honey. In this case bacon. You’d think adding a floral honey to smokey salty bacon wouldn’t work, but instead the smokey salty fattiness of the bacon helps to take that floral aspect, and the honey and herbal flavor of the glaze really makes the bacon shine.
Or so I tell myself. Mostly it’s just really tasty bacon.
Serves 4 as a side dish
8 pieces thick cut bacon
2 tbsp lavender honey
2 tbsp boiling water
Preheat your oven to 350°F
Mix the boiling water and honey.
Line a sheet pan with a rack, and spray the rack with cooking spray or rub with a paper towel and a little oil.
Cut the bacon strips in half, and brush or dip the bacon in the lavender honey mixture.
Arrange the bacon on the rack and bake until crisp and brown.
Some Really Fancy Hashbrowns (Pommes Paillasson)
I was taught that these were “haystack” potatoes – but the actual translation of Paillasson is “Doormat.” That’s because they’re said to look like a woven straw doormat. That doesn’t change the fact that Americans will pretty much think of them as Hashbrowns – and I apologize to those of you reading this in the rest of the world because … well, they could be rosti, or … a lot of other names.
These are basically really tasty French hashbrowns, and I’m not apologizing for that.
I make them with yellow potatoes and use a mandoline and a sharp knife to make very tiny julliened potatoes instead of using a grater. I find it makes them less gluey and leaves a bit more texture – but if you’re not feeling like making that extra (and possibly completely unnecessecary) effort, you can use a grater to process the potatoes.
I also leave the skin on – but wouldn’t (and don’t) when using russet type starchy potatoes. I find that the waxier varieties have thinner, more tender skin and that it adds flavor and texture – whereas the starchy potatoes the skin flavor and texture might be overwhelming.
Serves 4 as a side dish
1 ½ lbs yellow potatoes, skin on
4 tbsp unsalted butter, or 3 tbsp clarified butter
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
Herbs or chives as garnish
Clean and trim the potatoes, removing any eyes, brown or soft spots.
Use a mandolin to cut very thin slices of the potatoes – as thin as a U.S. dime.
Use a sharp knife to cut the slices into thin julienne batons.
Immerse the cut potatoes in enough cold water to cover completely and allow to soak for 3 minutes.
Remove, and drain very well.
Toss well with salt.
Add about ½ the butter to a medium sized non-stick (or well seasoned cast iron or French steel) pan with a lid over medium heat.
When the butter has stopped foaming, add the potatoes.
Cook for about 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Use a soon or spatula to press the potatoes down into the pan, forming an even layer.
Cover the pan with a lid (or a plate if you don’t have lid that fits) and cook on medium low heat for 20-30 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft.
Stir the potatoes once more.
Using a spatula or flat wooden spoon, shape the potatoes into a single large patty.
Add the remaining butter and raise the temperature to medium.
Cook until the potatoes begin to brown and crisp.
Using a spatula, carefully slide the potatoes out onto a large plate, invert the pan over the plate, and flip the potato patty back into the pan.
Once again, use a spatula or wooden spoon to reshape the patty.
Cook until the second side is crisp and brown.
Re-season with salt and pepper if desired, and garnish with chives or minced herbs.
Soft Scrambled Eggs with Herbs and Truffles
There are some similarities between these scrambled eggs and those my “Dads from the 70s and 80s only knew how to cook breakfast” father made many, if not most, weekend mornings. They’re eggs. They fortified with things that aren’t eggs. I put them on toast.
Other than that, they’re not at all the same.
The eggs my dad made – while somehow making a phenomenal mess of the kitchen – were usually spiked with shredded cheese – or worse, a handful of Kraft Singles torn up and tossed in.
These are spiked with herbs and minced truffles – which while a stupid and probably unnecessary luxury are not as expensive as you think, and … well, they’re a stupid and probably unnecessary luxury and we all deserve that every once in a while. Right?
I buy truffles preserved in oil online. They’re inexpensive (compared to fresh truffles), add a bit of fun to a lot of dishes (I put truffle butter on fried chicken this summer and it was awesome) and last for a long while.
The key to these eggs is attention – you’ve got to keep stirring and scraping the pan to keep them from setting up into hard scrambled eggs. If you want to try them, and aren’t confident in your ability (or your stove) you can set up a double boiler by setting a large stainless steel mixing bowl over a pot of boiling water and following the same instructions from there. It may take a little longer, but you’re less likely to overcook the eggs.
Serves 4 as a main course
8 large eggs
4 egg yolks
4 slices of brioche (above)
½ cup heavy cream
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1 ½ tsp kosher salt
1 tbsp finely minced preserved black truffles
1 tbsp finely minced chervil
1 tbsp finely sliced French (round) chives
Additional herbs as garnish.
Toast or grill 4 slices of brioche until browned and crisp.
Wish together the cream, eggs, and egg yolks until the mixture is very even.
Set a large non-stick pan over low heat and add the butter.
Whisk the salt into the egg mixture.
As soon as the butter has fully melted, add the egg mixture.
Using a silicone spatula, constantly scrape and stir the egg mixture.
Cook, over low heat, until the mixture just begins to set, and has the texture of loose oatmeal.
Add in the truffles and herbs, stirring and scraping.
Cook just until the mixture no longer appears raw- it should still be very loose and pourable.
Pour or spoon the eggs over toasted brioche and garnish with additional herbs and if you really feel like gilding the lily, put some good caviar on top.