Stopping. Starting. Starting Again.
An accidental simple Mediterranean inspired summer backyard meal – mostly.
This week’s menu was a quick infill when I realized that I hadn’t left myself enough time to finish work on what I’d planned. That was a fortunate accident, because honestly, it’s probably a better meal than that work in progress. Or maybe just a better meal for this week in this place in this mood.
I mean, that’s so much of food and eating, right?
What’re you in the mood for? Pizza? Wings? A healthlyish salad you’ll be surreptitiously picking out of your teeth during that late afternoon Teleconference when really all you want is some quiet and calm and a glass of wine?
Our moods and whims affect tastes. They dive our decisions and our emotional responses to what we’re eating. How you feel, what you’re craving, the memories and associations of a dish – those influence our experiences eating as much if not more than ingredients and techniques and even quality.
The menu I was working on – am still working on – is something that’s a comfort food for me. But I was rushing it, trying to get it in under the wire and making mistakes. That changed my mood – and it changed how I was feeling about those foods.
So, I pivoted. I turned to some other ideas that had been simmering in the back of my mind, some ingredients that had been waiting their turn in the back of the freezer, the back of the fridge, and in the back garden.
That changed my thinking, and it changed my mood. I started over with a new menu, one that came together sort of organically. And now I’m sitting in the back garden finishing this newsletter – and putting together the list of ingredients and tasks I need to start again with that rushed and abandoned previous attempt. I discovered this week that I sometimes need to step back, start again, and let things happen instead of forcing them. And that was a pretty good lesson.
This week’s menu is a Mediterranean inspired summer backyard meal – mostly. It’s light, mostly, and simple, and doesn’t require (mostly) ingredients that are hard to find.
I also discovered this week that I cannot spell Mediterranean - I can’t even get close enough for the spell checker to catch it. I guess that puts an end to my dream of winning the lottery, retiring to the Riviera, and just staring out at the ocean … because somehow “I spend my day lookin’ at that thing. Can’t spell. That over there.” Just doesn’t have the romance.
Asparagus Salad with Feta and Dried Tomato
This salad is very simple – but the layers of umami that come from the sherry vinegar, feta, and dried tomato and the brightness of the fresh produce and herbs make it seem a lot more involved than it is. You can make this salad with thinly sliced or julienned zucchini – which is more in season this time of year than asparagus – but I really love the crunch of the asparagus … so that’s what I’ve used here.
You don’t really have to blanch the asparagus, but that additional step really does improve the color and texture. If you’re using zucchini, do not blanche the vegetable – unless you really want a pile of green grey mush. I mean, maybe you do … but it’s not my thing.
1 bunch Green Asparagus
¼ cup crumbled feta
4-6 pieces dried or sun-dried tomato
1 clove garlic
2 tsp sherry vinegar
½ tsp kosher salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp fresh oregano
½ tsp fresh thyme leaves
If your dried tomatoes are marinated in oil, simply slice them into thin strips. If they’re dry, soak them in very hot water for 20 minutes, then slice into very thin strips.
Peel, trim, and microplane or crush the garlic.
Add the garlic, vinegar, salt, pepper, and herbs to a non-reactive bowl and allow to rest 10-15 minutes for the vinegar to soften the garlic flavor.
Optional: Prepare a large pot of heavily salted water and an ice bath. Blanch the asparagus for 15-30 seconds then shock and chill in the ice bath.
Trim the asparagus, removing the woody stem ends.
Slice the asparagus diagonally, as thinly as possible.
Whisk the oil into the herb and vinegar mixture, working slowly to form a stable emulsion.
Add the asparagus to the dressing mixture, tossing well to coat.
Add the feta and dried tomatoes, again tossing well to coat.
Serve immediately.
Lemon, Onion, and Herb Tzatziki
Normally I wouldn’t present a sauce like this as a dish on it’s own, but in this case there are a few mitigating factors. One, “normal” is not a word often used to describe me. Also one, this Tzatziki gets used as a sauce for two of this week’s recipes. Two, it’s really really good even on it’s own. I mean you’re probably not gonna grab a spoon and scoop it up all on it’s own, but if you have leftovers, use it as a dip for vegetables, drag a few pieces of fresh warm flatbread through it, even try it as a salad dressing if you want. The stuff is hearty, tangy, herby … well it’s just pretty damn delicious. I know this because I’ve been dipping leftovers into it all week. I even tried it on a hot dog I’d coated with a handful of spices, grilled, and dropped into a bun - which while not exactly bad was sort of an odd idea and maybe not the most successful experiment.
1 cup Greek style yogurt
1/4 cup diced cucumber
3 tbsp finely minced onion
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp minced fresh mint leaves
1 tbsp minced fresh baby dill
1 tbsp minced fresh parsley
1 tsp finely minced garlic
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp finely minced fresh thyme leaves
Add all ingredients to a non-reactive bowl, and mix well.
Transfer to a lidded container and refrigerate at least one hour before using to allow flavors to meld.
Chickpea, Potato, and Onion Fritters
These fritters are sort of a cross between the chickpea and onion fritters common in some south Asian cuisines, and the various potato fritters of Europe and … well, a lot of places. Baji meats Rosti or something like that. Regardless, they add a little bulk to onion fritters, and a little lightness to potato fritters and you can kinda do what you like with them.
I admit, I originally envisioned them as sort of a Mediterranean take on a potato Chat dish I’d order when I lived in San Francisco – that one dressed with yogurt and chilies and tamarind chutney, and topped chopped tomatoes and herbs. I decided to simplify it a little and just make the fritters - and the tzatziki that’s standing in for the yogurt and herbs – but dress these up however you like.
2 medium russet potatoes
1 large yellow or white onion
1 ½ cups chickpea flour
1 ½ tsp baking powder
2 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves
2 tbsp finely chopped cilantro leaves
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp minced garlic
2 cups plus 1 tsp neutral oil
Peel, trim, and shred or finely julienne the potato.
Add 1 tsp neutral oil to a large skillet over medium heat.
Add the potato, and saute, stirring frequently, until the potato is partially cooked – about 5 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature. S
Set the potato aside and wipe out the pan.
Peel, trim, and thinly slice the onion from end to end.
Add the chickpea flour, AP flour, baking powder, and salt to a large non-reactive bowl, and whisk to combine.
Add the onions and partially cooked potato to the flour mixture, tossing and kneading to evenly coat and distribute the mixture.
Add the garlic and herbs to the mixture, again tossing to coat.
Add just enough cold water – about ¼ cup, but the amount will vary based on the moisture in your potatoes and onions – to make a very thick easily formable batter.
Heat the remaining 2 cups of oil in the skillet. Heat the oil to 325°F
Form the batter into patties, and fry in oil until browned and crisp.
Serve with Tzatziki.
Garlic and Cumin Rubbed Lamb Ribs
I’ve joked before about how ribs have become a staple of this newsletter – in fact I’m pretty sure I’ve mentioned these vary ribs. I picked up a couple racks of lamb ribs from a local farmer – frozen, because it’s pretty much impossible to get fresh meat from small farmers because of the way we process meat – and spent a lot of time thinking about how I wanted to prepare them. Like a few of the other things this week – in the end I decided to simplify everything. They’re just roasted, wrapped, and finished over high heat – a technique that gives you the best of both – wet and dry heat – worlds when it comes to cooking meats. And the rub? Five ingredients that you may already have in your pantry.
The result though is so much more than that. Crispy, sweet but not stick, that deep funky warmth of the cumin and the sharp citrus of the coriander – backed by the subtle spice of black pepper. They’re just fun. Tiny, funky, tasty, and satisfying.
I’ve used garlic powder instead of fresh garlic hear for a couple of reasons. One, after years of being sort of orthodox about using real garlic instead of powder I’ve decided that there’s a place for both. They’re not the same thing, and they’re not interchangeable – but they’re both useful ingredients. Two, In this dish, the moisture and texture of the fresh garlic would have detracted from the robs themselves.
One note though – I use garlic powder – not granulated garlic. A lot of folks – particularly here in the states – use the term interchangeably. Granulated garlic is that grainy yellow stuff that sort of looks like sand. I avoid that. Garlic powder – which can be a little hard to find, but you can find online and at spice shops like my personal favorite North Market Spices (they ship!) is a fine powder that won’t affect the texture of the foods you use it in.
2 racks lamb ribs
2 tbsp light brown sugar
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp ground cumin seed
1 tsp ground coriander seed
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Whisk together all the dried ingredients.
Using a paper towel, pat the ribs dry.
Coat the ribs generously on all sides with the rub – gently rubbing the mixture into the meat.
Place the ribs on a sheet pan lined with a rack, and refrigerate uncovered for at least 1 hour.
Preheat your oven to 325°F.
Roast the ribs at 325°F for 45 minutes.
Remove the ribs from the oven.
Wrap them tightly in foil.
Return them to the oven for an additional 30 minutes.
Allow the ribs to cool to room temperature.
Raise the oven temperature to 450°F
Unwrap the ribs, return them to the sheet pan lined with a rack, and return to the oven to brown and crisp – about 15 minutes.
Serve warm with Lemon, Onion, and Herb Tzatziki.
Saffron, Orange, and Almond Bread Pudding
My old friend Miles told me I was being a coward for avoiding deserts, and while I’m mostly not quite but nearly no longer the anxious insecure 10 year old boy for whom those would have been actual fighting words … he’s right.
Desserts are hard for me. I’m impatient, a little clumsy, more impatient, a little slapdash when it comes to precision measurement, even more clumsy … you get it. The things that make a great baker or a great pastry chef … those aren’t me.
I’ve been avoiding desserts. I’ve also been avoiding turning on the oven – even using a countertop oven to avoid heating up the house quite as much. But that’s a different issue.
So ,I’m sharing a dessert this week – though I’m still sort of being a coward because this desert doesn’t require the precision and such that some might (like that tart from a few weeks back that I still haven’t gotten right enough to share.)
I rely on bread puddings a lot. They’re satisfying, rich, easy to throw together, and can often occupy the same oven space as other things you’re working on. And they’re great for using up leftovers – like that loaf of brioche that it turns out we didn’t really eat.
This one’s flavored with saffron and a little cardamom – in addition to more traditional almond and vanilla. It comes together quickly – and despite the fact that the custard seems a little fussy – isn’t as involved as some others.
1 loaf brioche, cut into 1-2 inch cubes (about 8 cups)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 ½ cups heavy cream
1 large orange
4 egg yolks
½ cup Slivered Almonds
½ tsp Vanilla Extract
½ tsp Almond Extract
½ tsp ground cardamom
4-6 threads saffron
Using a vegetable peeler, remove 4 thin strips of orange zest from the orange.
Cut the zest into very thin strips and set aside.
Using a microplane, finely zest the rest of the orange.
Add the sugar and egg yolks to a non-reactive bowl, and using a spatula, mix until the yolks are slightly lightened in color.
Add the cardamom, the extracts, and the finely zested orange to the egg mixture.
Add the cream and the saffron to a thick bottomed pan over very low heat and bring to a low simmer.
While whisking, slowly pour about 1/3 of the hot cream mixture into the egg mixture.
Reverse the process and pour the mixture back into the pan – while whisking.
Cook over low heat stirring frequently, until the mixture will coat the back of a spoon.
Add the almonds and bread cubes to a large bowl and toss to mix.
Strain the custard mixture, discarding solids and any curdled egg, into the bread cubes and almonds.
Mix well.
Preheat your oven to 325°F.
Generously grease a baking pan with butter, add the bread and custard mixture to the pan.
Bake at 325 until set and browned on top.
Allow to cool to room temperature, cover tightly, and refrigerate until chilled.
Serve with whipped cream.
Thanks! I'll just make them the-day-of. Next time I buy an oven I'll be more careful about how much heat it empties into the kitchen!
Hi, Drew! I noticed that the lamb ribs get cooled to room temperature. Can they be precooked and refrigerated overnight to avoid putting the oven on in the summer? I would also like to know if you think pork ribs can be reheated 24 hours later. If so, what's a method you could suggest to get the ribs as tender the next day as they would have been straight out of the oven. Thanks!